Blanketing Basics
Winter is definitely here and for those who are still searching for that perfect winter blanket, here are a few tips to help.
To properly measure for a blanket, measure your horse from the center of the chest to the center of the tail. If your number is in between sizes, choose the larger size.
You've measured for your blanket, ordered it, and it has finally arrived...now what? Different manufacturers, cuts and designs cam make a ‘same size' blanket fit quite differently. Use these helpful hints to make sure the blanket fits your horse properly.
1. You should be able to slide your hand comfortable in the shoulder and withers area. Pressure in the area can cause discomfort or rub off hair. The blanket that fits well, should lie between 2-4 inches above the withers.
2. Check the chest buckles. When your horse put his head down to graze watch for pressure against the buckles.
3. Adjust the belly straps so they don't hang to low. This could be dangerous if the horse were to get a hoof stuck while rolling or playing. The cross-straps should hang no more than 4 inches below the belly.
4. The tail flap should be easily lifted by your horse's tail. A tail flap/cover which is too heavy or big will get in the way of manure resulting in a mess for you to clean.
**Don't forget to pay attention to the Denier and grams of Polyfill in the blanket. The Denier will determine the durability (higher the better) and Polyfill determines whether the blanket is light, medium or heavy weight (higher is warmer).
**Just ask! Most local tack shops will allow you to try a blanket on to make sure it fits. Be sure your horse is clean or use a sheet under it to keep the blanket clean, should you need to return it for a different size.
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Sheath Cleaning
Have you done your gelding/stallions lately?
First, we need to discuss a few things that are necessary prior to cleaning your horse's sheath. We all know that it isn't the most pleasant experience, but it is essential to your horse's health! Therefore, it must be done regularly.
Part 1: About Sheath Cleaning...
WRITTEN BY: Cheryl Sutor [1998]
What is "smegma"? Smegma is a collection of dirt and excretions, builds up inside the sheath and must be removed for the sake of the horse's health. It is not the most pleasant thing to do, but it is essential. If you don't or can't do this, you should have your veterinarian clean your horse's sheath at least every 6 months.
What is a "bean"? A firm lump of smegma that has collected and hardened inside the horse's penis. This lump or "bean" must be removed as often as possible. It can cause serious pain to your horse. There have been thousands cases in the last year where the bean is overlooked by the owner and becomes so large that the horse can no longer urinate...which may also cause other problems due to blockage.
What cleaning products should you use?
1.) Soap: K-Y jelly, Excalibur soap, betadine soap, or other mild soap such as Ivory. The choice of soap is entirely yours. However, if you horse is afraid of the hose/baths, you can leave off the rinsing step only if you use K-Y jelly and no other type of soap. The K-Y jelly will allow you to slide off most of the debris and smegma from inside your horse's sheath without the use of water. If you use betadine soap or other mild soap, be sure to rinse the entire area completely. If a soapy residue is left behind, it can irritate and dry out the area.
2.) Latex Gloves: You will also need a pair of Latex gloves (lubricated extremely well) if you want your hands to stay fairly clean. If not, you will have to lubricate your hands and wash them well when you are done. You may have to stop while cleaning to add more lubrication to your hands or gloves.
How do you get your horse's penis to extract?
1.) You can reach into the sheath, grasp the penis lightly and gently ease it out, or rub along the sheath in the area between the sheath and penis to get it to drop. (This area is shown as "B" in the diagram below).
2.) You can tranquilize the horse. Once tranquilized, the penis usually becomes relaxed enough to extract on its own. However, this method is not recommended unless supervised by a veterinarian.
One of the most important things to remember when cleaning your horse's sheath, is to be patient and gentle. Don't be in a rush. Never be rough with your horse's genitals, or you may end up injured. If he hasn't been taught to accept humans handling his genital area, it is very important that you teach him.
He will have to periodically have his genitals cleaned throughout his entire life.
A: Where you will find the 'bean'.
B: Inside the sheath area.
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Part 2: THE CLEANING PROCESS...
WRITTEN BY: Patricia Harris [1998]
1.) Check to make sure there are no prospective boyfriends, elderly neighbors, or Brownie troops with a line of sight to the proceedings. Though of course they're probably going to show up unexpectedly ANYWAY once you're in the middle of things. Prepare a good explanation.
2.) Trim your fingernails short. Assemble horse, hose, and your sense of humor (plus, ideally, Excalibur cleanser and perhaps thin rubber gloves).
3.) Use hose (or damp sponge) to get the sheath and its inhabitant wet. Uh, that is, do this in a *civilized* fashion with due warning to the horse; he is apt to take offense if an icy-cold hose blasts unexpectedly into his personal regions ;-)
4.) Now introduce your horse to Mr Hand . What I find safest is to stand facing the horse's head, with my shoulder and hip snugly against the horse's thigh and hip so that if he makes any suspicious move such as raising his leg, I can feel it right away and am in any case pressed so close that all he can do is shove, not really kick. The horse should be held by an assistant or by your free hand, NOT tied fast to a post or to crossties. He may shift around a good bit if he's not happy with Mr Hand's antics, but don't be put off by that; as long as you are patient and gradual, and stick close to his side, he'll get over it. Remember that it would be most unladylike of you to simply make a direct grab for your horse's Part. Give the horse a clue about what's on the program. Rest your hand against his belly, and then slide it back til you are entering The Home of the Actual Private Part. When you reach this first region of your destination, lube him up good with Excalibur or whatever you're using. If the outer part of his sheath is really grungy you will feel little clods and nubblies of smegma peeling off as you grope around in there. Patiently and gently expedite their removal.
5.) Thus far, you have probably only been in the outer part of the sheath. The Part Itself, you'll have noticed, is strangely absent. That's because it has retired shyly to its inner chambers. Roll up them thar sleeves and follow in after it ;-)
6.) As you and Mr Hand wend your way deeper into the sheath, you will encounter what feels like a small portal that opens up into a chamber beyond. Being attentive to your horse's reaction, invite yourself in . You are now in the inner sanctum of The Actual Private Part. It's hiding in there towards the back, trying to pretend it isn't there. Say hi and wave to it . No, really, work your finger back and forth around the sides of it. If the horse won't drop, this is your only shot at removing whatever dried smegma is clinging to the surface of the Part itself. So, gently explore around it, pulling out whatever crusty topsoil you find there. Use more water and more Excalibur if necessary to loosen attached gunk.
7.) When Mr Hand and the Actual Private Part have gotten to know each other pretty well, and the Part feels squeaky clean all around, there remains only one task: checking for, and removing, the bean. The bean is a pale, kidney-shaped accumulation of smegma in a small pouch just inside the urethra. Not all horses accumulate a bean, but IME the majority do, even if they have no visible external smegma. So: the equine urethra is fairly large diameter, and indeed will permit you to very gently insinuate one of your slimmer fingers inside the urethral opening. Do so, and explore upwards for what will feel like a lump or "pea" buried no more than, I dunno, perhaps 3/4" in from the opening. If you do encounter a bean, gently and sympathetically persuade it out with your finger. This may require a little patience from BOTH Mr Hand AND the horse, but the horse will be happier and healthier once it's accomplished. In the rare event that the bean is too enormous for your finger to coax out, you might try what I did (in desperation) last month on the orange horse: Wrap thumb and index finger around the end of the Part and squeeze firmly to extrude the bean. Much to my surprise it worked and orange horse did NOT kill me for doing it and he does not seem to have suffered any permanant damage as a result ;-> I have never in my life seen another bean that enormous, though.
8.) Now all that's left to do is make a graceful exit and rinse the area very thoroughly in apology for the liberties you've taken . A hose will be MUCH easier to use here than just a sponge and bucket, IME. Make sure to direct the water into the Part's inner retreat too, not merely the outer part of the sheath. This may require you to enfold the end of the hose in your hand and guide it up there personally.
9.) Ta-da, you are done! Say, "Good horsie" and feed him lots of carrots. Watch him make funny faces at the way your hands smell. Hmm. Well, perhaps there is ONE more step...
10.) The only thing I know of that is at all effective in removing the lovely fragrance of smegma from your hands (fingernails arms elbows and wherever else it's gotten) is Excalibur. Even then, if you didn't use gloves you may find you've got an unusual personal perfume for a while. So, word to the wise, do NOT clean your horse's sheath just before an important job interview or first date ;-) and of course, there is that one FINAL step...
11.) Figure out how to explain all this to your mother (or the kid from next door, or the meter reader, or whoever else you've just realized has been standing in the barn doorway speechlessly watching the entire process.)
Now, go thou forth and clean that Part :-)
Copyright 1998 Patricia Harris, please email pat_berto@yahoo.com for permission to reprint.
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The Art of Reiki
by: Diane Novack.
What is Reiki?
Reiki pronounced (RAY-KEY) is Japanese for universal life force energy. Reiki is healing energy which flows through the practitioner and out through her/his hands. This gentle method of healing usually results in a totally relaxed animal. Reiki un-blocks energy and assists the body in optimizing healing wherever it is needed.
What does Reiki feel like?
During a treatment, the client usually feels a warm sensation, or one that feels 'tingly' on the areas that are touched. Others feel no sensation at all. Most animals enjoy Reiki but some are not comfortable with the sensations and may get up or move away from the practitioner's hands. I have four cats, and two are not comfortable receiving Reiki for whatever reason. I cannot stress how important it is to respect the animal's wishes and not 'push' Reiki. Reiki should never be imposed, but willingly accepted. You will know what your animal's wishes are the moment Reiki begins flowing through the practitioner's hands.
Will my animal's problem/issue clear up immediately?
It would be highly uncommon for your animal to clear up all of his/her issues after just one Reiki session. What you will notice after the first session is a feeling of deep relaxation. in your animal. He/she may let out a deep sigh or go into a deep sleep. Some animals have actually snored as I worked on them. With equines, the most common response is licking and chewing, yawning and stretching. It's advisable to let all animals rest for 24 hours or more following a Reiki session as the energy continues to work through them. It is important to note that Reiki works for the Animal's Highest Good. If there are underlying causes to a particular problem, Reiki will attend to those first. Ali's one of the RVHR horses appetite increased after sessions. We didn't know where the energy was going to go with him and it seemed to help him in that department There is no set time table for results although many owners report seeing movement after four to five sessions. For more information on Reiki please visit www.ReikiPets.com. Reiki is a COMPLEMENTARY therapy Reiki is not meant to be a replacement for good veterinary medicine but as a complement to it.
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The is a horse's chestnut.
Chestnuts are horny growths located on the inside of a horse's legs, above the knees and below the hocks. The size and shape of the chestnuts are unique to each horse, like fingerprints.
It's not a blemish or a scab. And no, it's not a sensor so the horse can see at night, as the old wives tale. Rather, it's a remnant of evolution thought to be similar to a pad found on dogs. Ancestors of the modern horse were four-toed, fox-size animals called Eohippus. As they got bigger, their legs grew longer and several toes became one. Essentially, the horse is now walking on its middle finger; the hoof is its fingernail. Hmm … you know what it feels like to stub your toe. Imagine that being your only one. Regular maintenance of the horse's toes is vitally important to its continued health.
For more information about the evolution of horses, visit these Web sites:
Horse Evolution
The Evolution of Horses - American Museum of Natural History
Fun fact: The favorite horses of both Alexander the Great and Julius Caesar both had extra toes.
Source: Nature Genetics
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Equine Orthotics and Prosthetics
Gone are the days of euthanizing your horse, cow or mule due to a leg injury. Modern technology has advanced to the point of being able to assist animals with limb problems.
Ronnie N. Graves (on the right )
LPO ( Licensed Prosthetist & Orthotist )
RTP ( ABC Registered Technician in Prosthetics )
BOC Orthotist
pictured with
DR Doug Davenport DVM ( center background )
and Terese, owner of Tyson at the Lazy RT Ranch
Tyson suffered a shoulder injury that kept him from being able to extend and lock his front leg so he could stand up. The owners and Dr. Davenport were not thrilled at what had been put on him, so Dr Davenport contacted us to help this 8 month old Quarter horse colt. A two piece clamshell laminated brace was made overnight and applied the next day. 10 short days later, Tyson was able to walk without the aid of any bracing.
We also have a totally portable lab that can come to your facility. We can live onboard along with being able to make the device while at your facility. PRESTO is a 32 foot long Kenworth Toterhome pulling a 28 foot enclosed trailer. It has a generator and water supply along with all of the tools needed to complete the job
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HORSE BODY CONDITIONS
From Texas A & M University
What is body condition scoring?
It is a visual and hands-on method to evaluate the amount of body fat a horse has. Developed at Texas A&M University by D.R. Henneke and others, this system is a good management tool to determine the optimum amount of body fat for every type of horse.
How does body condition scoring work?
The amount of fat covering areas of the neck, withers, down the back, around the tailhead, over the ribs and behind the shoulder is evaluated. These areas are where the horse deposits fat stores.
Body condition scores range from 1- 9, a score of 1 being emaciated with no fat stores and 9 being extremely fat. A score of 5 is moderate and where most horses should be. Be sure not to confuse body fat with gut fill or "belly".
Why is it important?
By evaluating each horse's body condition regularly, the feeding and exercise program can be adjusted up or down to maintain the desired condition. Each class of horse, based on age, workload and use has an optimal body condition score. For example, a performance horse need enough body fat stores to use as an energy source to maintain performance, while too much fat can decrease performance.
This system sets a standard for evaluating and communicating the condition of a horse. This makes it easy to discuss a horse's condition as simply as telling someone the score over the phone.
The two most common nutritional problems most horse owners have is overfeeding or underfeeding their horse. To prevent either of these problems from developing
1) body condition score the horse
2) adjust the feeding program if necessary
3) monitor the score frequently
There are nine areas throughout the body:
1) Neck
2) Withers
3) Shoulder
4) The area directly behind the elbow
5) Topline
6) Ribs
7) Tail head
8) Point of hip
9) Point of buttock
A tenth area found to be useful as well is the "twist", the area between the thighs, as viewed from behind. Each area should be appraised and scored individually and then the scores averaged to produce a final overall score. This doesn't mean you need to laboriously write down and calculate each area. What it does mean is that you need to look at the total horse and take into account individual differences. Some horses can be quite plump and yet still look a little ribby, so the overall score should look at areas other than just those ribs. Other horses can have quite a bit of fat cover, but because of funny conformation through the croup, look thin in just that one area. Be sure to look at all the areas, then form a general overall score based on individual areas of observation.
When appraising each area, use your hands as well as your eyes. Skeletal landmarks can be hidden by a furry winter coat, dirt, lighting or just the way the horse is standing. Hold your hand flat, fingers together, and feel for the reference points. Then walk around the horse and see if your observations are consistent from the other side as well.
|
DESCRIPTION OF BODY CONDITION SCORES
|
|
SCORE
|
NAME
|
DESCRIPTION
|
| 1
|
Poor Emaciated |
Bony structures of neck, shoulders and withers easily noticeable. Spinous processes, along the ribs, topline, point of hip and point of buttock all project prominently, with an obvious ridge down the back. Individual vertebrae may be identifiable. There is significant space between inner buttocks ("twist"). The animal is extremely emaciated; no fatty tissue can be felt. |
|
2
|
Very Thin |
Bony structures of the neck, shoulders and withers are faintly discernible. Spinous processes, ribs, topline, point of hip and buttock are prominent. Noticeable space between inner buttocks. Animal is emaciated. |
|
3
|
Thin |
Neck, withers and shoulder are accentuated, but not obviously thin. Tailhead is prominent. Slight fat cover over ribs, but still easily discernible. Spinous processes, point of hip and point of buttock are rounded, but easily discernible. Twist is filled in, but without noticeable deposition of fatty tissue. |
|
4
|
Moderately Thin |
Neck, withers and shoulders are not obviously thin. Ribs are faintly discernible. Point of hips and buttocks are not visually discernible. Fat can be felt around the tailhead, prominence somewhat dependent upon conformation. There is a slight negative crease (a ridge) along the topline, especially over the loins and hindquarters. |
|
5
|
Moderate |
Neck, withers and shoulder appear rounded and blend smoothly into the body. Ribs cannot be seen but are easily felt. Back is level with neither a ridge nor a gully along the topline. Fat around tailhead is beginning to feel spongey. Slight amount of discernible fat deposited between buttocks (twist). |
| 6
|
Moderately Fleshy |
Fat beginning to be deposited along the neck, withers and shoulders. Fat over the ribs beginning to feel spongey, ribs cannot easily be felt. Fat around tailhead feels soft. May be slight positive crease (gully) along the topline. Noticeable fat deposition between buttocks. |
| 7 |
Fleshy |
Fat deposited along neck and withers and behind shoulder. Individual ribs can be felt, but with noticeable filling between ribs. Slight positive crease down back. Fat around tailhead feels soft. |
| 8 |
Fat |
Noticeable thickening of neck. Area along withers is filled with fat, area behind shoulder is filled in flush with body. Ribs cannot be felt, noticeable positive crease down back, fat around tailhead is very soft. Significant fat deposited along inner buttocks. |
| 9 |
Extremely Fat |
Bulging fat along neck, shoulders and withers. Flank is filled in flush. Patchy fat appearing over ribs, obvious positive crease down back. Obvious fat deposited along inner buttocks. |
Because miniature horses have a much longer hair coat than full size horses the only way to accurately judge the condition of your mini is to feel through the hair. It is recommended that you give your horse a good feel at least once a month.
Thank you to Texas A&M University and others for sharing this valuable information.
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If you know of something in the news you think others may be interested in or would like to suggest a specific type of horse care and maintenance tip for us to share with others, please contact us! We'd love to hear from you!
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